As promised, I tried again, and like "The Little Engine That Could" (version by Watty Piper), I finally achieved a look more in line with those on Pat McGrath's site (though not as glistening). My camera (though HD and of good quality) doesn't do it justice though (or it could be the camera person, LOL), because I think the look is much more smouldering and sultry. That said here's the evolution of the look, which I did my way, so there again, you may try sticking to her technique. (Please see previous post May 2, 2017 to see the content of the Dark Star 006 Kit)
***Note: There is slight fallout from the metallic pigments, so:
- either do only your eyes or
- your upper facial foundation,
- do all foundation, but clean with eye cream and redo under-eye makeup,
- use shadow shields, or
- place powder under the eyes that you'll brush away later.
Step 1: Shade only the Dark Matter pigment (I used Zoeva's 235 Contour Shader), from outer corners to inner. Open your eye and see how high you want to place your shadow. I went for above my crease, highest slightly before the peak of my brows. Note that I did my brows, foundation, lids (primed only with a creme foundation, but a primer would be best) and mascara (dark brown) before starting.
Step 2: Shade with Mercury pigment only on lid before slight fold.
Step 3: Since my fold wasn't significant, I put Mercury fully on lid to crease (if you do have a significant fold, I'd leave across the smaller lid area that shows when you eyes are open & not necessary all of the lid into the crease, but perhaps to mid lid when eyes are closed).
Step 4: Blend (with clean brush, I used Evgeny's blending brush, a really good all-over or wide area blending brush) and add the Astral White pigment on the brow bones. Note that I didn't use her blending brush, not because it isn't good, but because I had one I use regularly. Since it comes with the set, I'd recommend using it versus buying one like the Evgeny blending brush, which is round and larger.
Step 5: Add Cyber Clear gloss to the lid to crease area and Astral White layed down on the lid over Mercury, but not as high, then blend all over (you can do as you like. I like the change it gives to the other two colors, Dark Matter & Mercury (as you can see it makes a blue reflection, though in reality less so on the crease and brow bone areas)
Below: Here's the amount of gloss you'll need, perhaps a tad less if you have small eyes or more, but definitely not more (I used a lay-down brush, 135142 by Peggy Sage, but one like Zoeva's 234 Luxe Smoky Shader would do. Use a small brush that allows you to pat the product onto the lid exactly where you want, thus not too large.)
Step 6: I added a little more Astral White (+ gloss, if you need) for more of a dramatic look and shine.
Step 7: Blend (again always with a clean brush, as I learned from Robert Jones, one that you haven't used to place color.) Here it looks like I've removed lots of the color, but in reality it looks dramatic & sultry (with more than enough color).
Step 8: Place a smoky eyeliner as close to the base of the lashes as possible (or tightline if you have large eyes, which I did every so slightly) with Pat's Black SmudgeLiner eye kohl (it looks darker in person and you can darken by lining twice, which I did not do) and add a little Astral White w/o gloss in the inner "V" tear duct corner of the eyes). Last, add a black mascara and voilà! Though I didn't do so here, adding false lashes would definitely give an evening flare!
Her shadow and dark style work well for those with glasses. (***The overall look is slightly darker and gradient in person.)
Here's what it looks like in an incandescent lighting after some wear, so primer would definitely give it more staying power, as the gloss brings shine and glistening, but makes the pigment move. That said, the lighting gave it an ethereal glow, but the effect is still dramatic and slightly darker than here.
All I can say is that Pat McGrath's shadows are unique and give that certain, "Je-ne-sais-pas-quoi" glistening effect that for some may be worth the cost (or not). I don't regret having it now that I'm learning to work them.
Finally, here's a discounted beauty products and spa offers site, beautéprivée, for anyone in Metropolitan France, Belgium or Luxembourg. (I'm not sponsored by this company, but I have made a couple of purchases, and if you know your companies and products, you can find very good deals. NOTE: using this link provide me with "parrainage" [patronage referral] points.)